• Alternately, if you don’t need them forever-forever, a couple good coats of linseed oil (boiled, not raw) will give you a fair measure of waterproofing while ultimately being biodegradable.

      I mean, it would take forever and stink up your place for weeks, but whatever.

  1. Kelly, you’re probably right, looking for some box donations would certainly be worthwhile!

    Steven, boiled linseed oil sounds like it might be the ticket… assuming that we’d find another place to apply it. Does it go on like a varnish (with a rag) or like a urethane where you can just brush it on?

    • You brush it on, typically, as you want to really saturate the material. This tutorial for making oilcloth (another thing you might look into if banner-making is still on your agenda) works on the same principle, though I couldn’t immediately find one specific to papier-mâché.

      Bear in mind that the stuff isn’t altogether cheap, and you’d need a lot of it (though it’s used to finish furniture, so you could probably find it in less expensive gallon containers—you shouldn’t need to go through dozens of the little bottles of artist-grade stuff). Also, even the refined stuff (which includes drying additives) takes quite awhile to dry, even in a warm, well-ventilated area. I’d definitely try the process out on a little maquette, if you go that route, before committing to it at full scale.

  2. The M looks great!
    I am kind of concerned that with some sort of coating on it, it will sag and droop if it gets wet. Perhaps putting some sort of bracing on the inside (even just some Z shaped pieces here and there, where the top and bottom are glued to the front and back of the letter?) would help out somewhat.

Comments are closed.